The H2D isn’t worth it (for me)



The H2D is only good for printing 2-color helmets 🤷‍♂️

In my last video, I pointed out that the H2D seemed way slower than expected… Turns out it was a glitch in Bambu Studio’s 0.12mm profile. After fixing the settings, the H2D is slightly faster for multicolor prints—but after running the numbers, I’m still not convinced it’s worth it for me.

Here’s why:
💰 Cost of a full plate of minis: ~3.50€
🗑 Cost of wasted filament per plate: ~3.50€
📆 Monthly savings with the H2D: ~7€

Sounds good, right? Well, the printer costs 2200€, which means it would take me 314 months (26 years!) to break even just on waste savings.

And since the H2D is still slower for single-color prints, I’d rather stick with the P1S or A1.

Would you upgrade for the waste savings alone? Let me know what you think! 👇 #3DPrinting #BambuLab #H2D #3DPrintedMinis #TabletopGaming #MakerCommunity #PrintSmarter

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38 Comments

  1. 🚨Before you comment, a few clarifications 🚨

    First of all, this video is over a year old… So is this comment.

    Secondly, the H2D is a great printer for some people! Especially for technical, industrial use cases. If you print big dual-color helmets, multi-material parts, flexible filaments, or different-material supports, it’s fantastic.

    That said, I don’t need any of that.

    When the H2D launched, a lot of us (me included) were hoping for a cheaper multitool-style Prusa XL clone that could crush multicolor figures quickly without tons of waste. It’s not that — and yes, I was disappointed.

    With that context in mind:

    "This is personal math!"
    👉 Absolutely. I’m not a professional reviewer, I’m a toy designer. I didn’t expect this video to blow up like it did.

    "You didn’t factor in bed size!"
    👉 Not explicitly, but it doesn’t really change the outcome. If you want pure volume, multiple P1Ps will always be a better value for multicolor minis. You'll have way more prints and the small difference in waste savings won’t make up the cost. And if you need more volume than that, you’re probably better off moving to injection molding anyway.

    "The H2D has better print quality!"
    👉 From what I’ve seen (and from others' feedback), print quality looks about the same as the other Bambu printers.

    "The H2D is faster!"
    👉 Only on very large prints. On small to medium prints like minis, it’s actually slower than a P1 or X1. Probably because the heavier toolhead can’t accelerate as quickly, even though the top speed is higher.

    "It’s faster if you only use two colors!"
    👉 Maybe. But that’s a very niche case, and most multicolor projects use more than two colors anyway.

    Hope that clears it up a bit. Thanks for all the great discussions! 💛

  2. You can buy 2 X2D and almost a A1 for the money of the H2D, and can have 3 beds of 250*250 instead of one single bed of 350*350, much more production, and in case of failure the downtime won’t affect you that much

  3. Counter-argumen: Snapmaker U1. Larger build plate so maybe 2-5 more minis, significantly less wasted filament, significantly faster for multi-color prints meaning you could go from 1 plate of minis a week to 2 or even 3. Not to mention Bambu has been pretty evil when it comes to being open with really anything, including stuff that isn't even theirs.

  4. A business should also consider their responsibilities towards nature and following generations of humans and invest in better hardware to reduce pollution. I know you have a small business, I do as well, still I invest and do whatever I can to be considerate.

  5. What is up with the nonsense cost comparison there? Having no printer at all and printing nothing or $2200 for the H2D? Or was the H2S free for you? The H2D is certainly not $2200 more than the H2S, try more like $500 and give us a real cost comparison.

  6. You'd have to be a dumfuk to buy an H2D if all you print are 4-color minifigs. Then again some would say you'd have to be a dumfuk to even print 4-color minifigs. The Creality U1 is tailor-made for prints like this, I think, 4 heads, literally 0 waste. Something you don't mention is that trying 4 colors with a 2-head printer will also give you a bad tradeoff: you'll get color admixture (especially black to white) unless you MASSIVELY up the purge rates past the point of sanity.

    But the H2D is fantastic for mono-color prints with support material, or for prints that are mostly monocolor but have say some colored text.

    I have and love an H2D but frankly had the X2D been available when I realized (after 9 days) that a P2S without a heated chamber just couldn't print big ABS pieces well, I'd probably have gotten an X2D instead.

    The real question isn't, which printer is best, but, which way of spending your printer budget is best?

    For the price of an H2D+AMS2, you can get an X2D+AMS2, A2L+AMS2, and two A1 Minis+AMS Lites. Or two X2D+AMS2 and an A1 Mini. Or I think an X2D, Creality U1, and a Mini+AMS Lite, if you're the kind of dumfuq that prints four-color minifigs.

  7. Prusa whith 5 head is way more expensif then any H series and for just 1head fir prusa its the same price of the H2s, prusa 5head the max yrs at 5.500$ so yrs not even close of the bambu and you dont even have AMS internal filament compartiment and a fully close printer.

  8. It's worth it 💯 for me, I print about 300-400g a day so also the pla support on petg is just so good .

    It's been 2000 hours + and I absolutely love my h2d c1

  9. I bought mine and can’t get it working. I printed benchy then it had errors on the next print. I tried fixing it, test printed benchy again and half way through I got spaghetti, followed by an error reading filament, it was convinced I had the wrong filament fed in. After a few days I said fuck it and put it aside and opened my P2S AMS combo and it’s running like a champ! I’m fearful Bambu won’t take it back. Anyone have experience with their returns?

  10. I do think some of those models the time savings would be much higher than others though, like some seem like they have the same 2 colors per layer for a decent amount of the print – and I think with a little adjustment some could become like that if they weren't already.

    Like the cultist minion guys would be going from a color change every single layer, to with the H2D no color changes until you get to the brooch. Then back to none for the top of the hood. that's probably more than 2/3rds of the layers in the model. The slime is even better, Owl bear seems close, too.

  11. And thus the fact that you could contribute to less waste of virgin plastic produced from Corn starch, which requires water and fertilizer to grow, has zero weight in the argument? It's all about the dollar… Nice…

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